Winterizing Gutters in Columbus: A Mid-October Checklist
The first hard freeze in Columbus usually lands in late October or the first week of November; the average first 28-degree night at John Glenn is right around Halloween. Everything on this list is easier before that than after, and some of it is impossible after, because you can't reseal a corner at 30 degrees and you can't reset the pitch on a gutter full of ice.
This is the winter list. The wind-and-anchoring check was the September checklist; this one assumes the gutters are on the house and asks whether they'll come through to March straight.
Clean and flush
1. Clean — but at the right time
If your trees are maples, clean in early November after they finish. If they're oaks, wait until late November or early December; pin oaks in Clintonville and Upper Arlington hold on into December. A gutter that goes into the freeze full of wet leaves becomes a block of ice that weighs eight pounds a foot and pulls the hangers out. The tree-by-tree calendar has the timing; cleaning is $120–$300.
2. Flush every downspout
Run a hose into the top of each one and watch the bottom. A downspout that's half-plugged with a buckeye and a plug of leaves will freeze solid in December, and a frozen downspout splits at the elbow. In spring you'll find the elbow on the lawn and the water spraying at the foundation. Ten minutes now.
Pitch and corners
3. Sight down every run for standing water
A run that holds water freezes first and ices longest, and it's the foundation the ice dam builds on. If there's a puddle in the middle on a dry day, the run has sagged and needs a re-hang with the pitch reset — $150–$300 per run, and October is the month to do it while the fascia is dry and the sealant will cure.
4. Reseal the corners
Look under each corner for a drip stain. A weeping corner in October is a split corner in February, because water in the joint freezes and pries it open. Polyurethane gutter sealant needs a dry surface and temperatures above about 40 degrees to cure, so this is a now-or-April job. $150–$250 per corner, or a $12 tube on a single story.
Extensions
5. Sort out the extensions
This is the one Columbus-specific item. Downspout extensions should stay on all winter — the meltwater in a January thaw has to go somewhere, and on clay that somewhere shouldn't be the foundation. But an extension across a driveway or a walkway turns into a sheet of ice on the pavement every time the sun melts the roof. So:
- Extensions that discharge onto the lawn: leave them, and make sure they're screwed on so a snowblower doesn't take them.
- Extensions that discharge onto a driveway, walk or patio: this is the argument for a buried line to a pop-up emitter in the lawn, $250–$600. Short of that, a rigid extension long enough to cross the pavement to the grass, or a hinged one you can flip up on snowblower days.
- Rain barrel diverters: disconnect and switch to winter bypass before the freeze, or the barrel splits.
The north side, guards, roof edge and trees
6. Check the north eave
Walk to the north side and look at the fascia and the soffit under the eave. Stains, peeling paint or a line of rust from old icicle nails mean this eave dams every year. If the attic is under-insulated, that's the fix; if it isn't, or it can't be reached, this is where heat cable earns its keep, and October is when it gets installed, not January.
7. Guards
Screen guards: make sure they're clipped in, because a snow slide off the roof takes loose ones with it. Micro-mesh: brush off the top after the last leaf drop so meltwater has somewhere to go. Reverse-curve hoods: know that they'll grow a row of icicles and there's not much to do about it.
8. Look at the roof edge
From the ladder, or from the yard with binoculars: is there a drip edge, and do the shingles overhang it into the gutter? In winter, meltwater running behind the gutter freezes on the fascia and in the soffit, and that's how a $200 flashing problem becomes a rotted fascia board. Tell your roofer now.
9. Trim the branches over the roof
Snow load on a silver maple limb over the roof is how the limb ends up in the gutter. An arborist in October is cheaper than a gutter section and a roof patch in February.
The list, short form
| Item | Do it by | Cost if you hire it |
|---|---|---|
| Clean (maples) | Early Nov | $120–$300 |
| Clean (oaks) | Early Dec | $120–$300 |
| Flush downspouts | Now | Included in cleaning |
| Re-hang sagging runs | Before the freeze | $150–$300 per run |
| Reseal corners | Before 40°F nights | $150–$250 each |
| Extensions off pavement | Now | $25–$600 |
| Heat cable on the north eave | October | $700–$1,300 per eave |
If more than two or three items are red on your house, call for a gutter repair visit and read us the list. October and early November are the last comfortable weeks for a crew on a ladder, and the March calendar is full of the houses that skipped this.
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